India Ink: Modern in Mumbai

Cecilia Morelli Parikh is still a woman on a mission. Nearly two years ago, with Julie Leymarie and Aurélie de Limelette, she opened Le Mill, a multibrand fashion and home store, in a converted warehouse in a gritty section of Mumbai, India, which brought a contemporary Western aesthetic to an affluent Indian shopper. Last November, Morelli Parikh and her co-founders (Leymarie is a former L’Oréal executive; de Limelette has designed numerous displays for Hermès) rolled out a second store, this one in the city’s decidedly fancier Breach Candy area. Morelli Parikh describes the first store’s location as the equivalent of New York’s “meatpacking district, 30 years ago,” while the new store’s surroundings are “the Upper East Side.”

At 1,900 square feet, the second Le Mill is much smaller than the 15,000-square-foot flagship store (which, as of next month, will carry only home products, including the store’s own furniture and tabletop lines, designed by de Limelette, as well as European brands like Carl Hansen & Son, Gervasoni and Gubi). In contrast to the flagship’s industrial look — the name Le Mill refers to the building’s early life as a rice mill — the new store is “more polished,” Morelli Parikh says. The entry floor is painted in a gray and white abstract geometric pattern; the cashier’s desk is a shipping container painted glossy white. It’s the perfect backdrop for the store’s sharply focused fashion offerings — from contemporary labels like 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alexander Wang, Erdem and the Row — as well as jewelry by Mawi, En Inde, Shourouk and Tom Binns, among others, and gift items and tableware.

This spare but sensual look — in design as well as fashion — is what Morelli Parikh and her co-founders want to bring to the Indian luxury goods market, which still lags well behind that of, say, China. It wasn’t that long ago that Indian women began to abandon traditional dress for Western fashion, and even then they often chose flashy over fashion-forward. Add India’s high import duties and the fact that affluent Indians, who travel frequently, prefer to shop in London, Dubai and New York, and the women behind Le Mill had their work cut out for them.

But none of this fazes the American-born, London-raised Morelli Parikh, who, after working at Bergdorf Goodman, married Rohan Parikh — who runs the real estate and construction branch of his family’s shipping company, Apurva Natvar Parikh Group, or A.N.P.G. — and settled in Mumbai two years ago. She noticed a lack of multibrand stores, and realized that while many Western fashion and home products are made in India, with its traditions of craftsmanship, those goods — and their contemporary aesthetic — were generally not available there. So she, Leymarie and de Limelette set about “bringing that heritage into the 21st century,” away from heavy and ornate toward a lighter, more modern take on tradition.

It is no surprise that the apartment that Morelli Parikh and her husband share, in an Art Deco building on Marine Road (which has one of the largest concentration of Art Deco buildings in the world), embodies her “more natural, raw, delicate” outlook. The 2,400-square-foot space’s monochromatic restraint is leavened by contemporary Indian artworks and luxurious touches like the master bedroom’s inlaid marble floor. The furnishings are a mix of de Limelette’s understated pieces for Le Mill, Western classics like a Carl Hansen & Son lounge chair and contemporary works like dining chairs by BDDW in New York (available by special order at Le Mill). The look is comfortable and stylish, but modern.

And that is exactly the direction that Morelli Parikh is taking with Le Mill’s second store. Now that younger, less mainstream designers have proven to be successful, Le Mill has introduced fashion from what Morelli Parikh calls “even edgier” labels like Peter Pilotto and Mary Katrantzou. Still, Morelli Parikh explains that there’s a market for more classic clothing, so this month Joseph will join the store’s designer roster. But its biggest move to date will be the addition of Azzedine Alaïa in March. Morelli Parikh explains that the designer already has a following among the store’s core customers, about 50 women who represent a good 60 percent of Le Mill’s ready-to-wear business. “Alaïa is sexy, but it’s so chic,” she says.

Le Mill is forging ahead with plans to open stores in other prosperous Indian cities, like Delhi and Bangalore, and an e-commerce site will make its debut next month: “There is lots of wealth in third- and fourth-tier cities where there are no shops,” Morelli Parikh says. Being a tastemaker in a brave new world is “incredibly challenging,” she adds, “but really fun.”

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